Friday, May 7, 2010

Art Museums Galore

Discovered several new art museums in Paris, all of which are treasures. First is L’Orangerie, a perfectly wonderful art museum, where I discovered some new artists that I like – Utrillo and Derain. My favorite painting was by Rousseau, whose art is very strange but I like it for some reason. People and objects are out of perspective, the subject matter is odd, but it’s still very compelling. L’Orangerie is a beautiful space perfect for displaying art. Very quiet. Not overrun with school children like le Louvre.

Monet’s water lilies are there in two oblong rooms – the paintings molded to fit the curved walls. Quite a spectacle. But I must say I liked the other art there better.

It has been very cold in Paris. Yesterday, the winds felt like they were 30 degrees. I was quite chilled when I got back to 8 Rue de Varenne, where I'm staying.

Larry is the consummate host. Last night, he baked cod in olive oil, white wine and rosemary with fresh tomatoes and onions. It was unbelievably delicious. He served pasta and then for dessert, a molten chocolate cake with ice cream. It was too good for words. Chez Larry is definitely the best place to eat in Paris.

The other night, we ate at La Petite Chaise, which claims to be the oldest restaurant in Paris. It is just around the corner from Larry's apartment. There were lots of Americans there, and it felt like a typical French restaurant. I had French onion soup that was superb, sea bass, which was delectably crisp, and it was served with green beans, little onions and carrots and herbs. A fine meal.

Paris is incredibly, incredibly beautiful. La Place de la Concorde remains the most spectacular spot on earth. The view down the Champs de l’Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe, the Tuileries Gardens, the National Assembly, the Seine. It’s all too exhilarating for words.

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